Spa Lady
Onsen Love Stories
- 5
¡@
The Beautiful, Powerful Okami
in Kusatsu Onsen
¡@
The okami of a
Japanese Onsen hotel or resort is no ordinary career woman! She is at
the core of the very existence of the hotel. As a country cannot run
without its monarch, so the onsen hotel is meaningless without the
majestic okami. Read on to discover the mysterious influences and subtle
touches of these ¡¥queens¡¦.
I have encountered
beautiful, talented okami throughout Japan. Every hot spring hotel that
I have visited has had one of these impressive women at the helm. I
cannot even begin to refer to them all here, let alone give justice to
the enormous impact they have had on me and on the industry. I will thus
concentrate on the okami I met in Kusatsu Onsen in Gunma. First perhaps,
a bit of background.
Kusatsu, located in
the northwest of Gunma Prefecture, has been a well-known, well-loved spa
since its discovery in 1193. By the early 1600s, it had grown to be one
of the largest spa-resorts in Japan with 68 inns. Today, Kusatsu remains
one of Japan¡¦s most popular destinations for those searching for the
perfect hot spring. The first thing people notice when they enter the
area is the unique smell that lingers in the air. The combination of
sulfur and other minerals in the spring water is responsible for this
pungent smell and also for the healing effects of bathing. The
therapeutic qualities of the waters are reputed to cure all but a broken
heart. An ambitious call maybe but put your faith in onsen, as I have,
and you too will experience the magic.
Kusatsu has a
selection of varied spring baths. It also has festivities and activities
throughout the year for those rare individuals who don¡¦t want to bathe
and for when people like Spa Lady Windy can drag themselves away from
their liquid loves. Flower festivals celebrating the beauty of the
town¡¦s local flower, the Shakunage or Alpine Bloom, which incorporates a
tradition of drinking melted snow for year long health in spring. In
August, in tribute to the hot springs that have been the main source of
sustenance for centuries, local residents celebrate with dancing, music
and traditional ceremonies.
In autumn,
thousands of visitors travel to Kusatsu to witness the spectacular
changing colors of the alpine foliage throughout the town. The striking
contrast of colors on the slopes combines with the hot spring mist to
create a sight that attracts those who wish to witness the mysterious
beauty of nature. As the snow begins to fall in winter, hats, scarves
and ski-suits are taken down and dusted off. Skiing has become
increasingly popular in recent years and Kusatsu has facilities to match
any international ski resort.
As if these natural
surroundings, facilities and services are not enough, the region is also
home to ¡¥Daruma Dolls¡¦, small traditional dolls that are used for making
wishes on and which are extremely popular around election time. The
women in Gunma Prefecture are furthermore, rumored to be more outgoing
and independent. Kusatsu was, therefore, the perfect place for me to
study okami.
One would think that a
hot spring veteran such as myself would find the lively environs of
Kusatsu unappealing. Not so! I would rather like to believe that I
rejoice in the fact that so many people are sharing in my passion.
Kusatsu Onsen is furnished with a selection of different pool styles,
each charmingly unique, so I can share with all, although woe betide
anyone who attempts to steal my lover away!
Another thing that
draws me to Kusatsu in particular is the talents and skills of the okami,
resident there and following age-old tradition. A hot spring hotel
without an okami is like a hot spring without water. It doesn¡¦t exist!
Both as a recipient of their fine hospitality and an employee under
their guidance, I learnt from okami many of the secrets of success in
the business world, how the combination of fine service and efficient
management are key in the running of a hotel. Although the saying goes
that no one is irreplaceable, I truly believe that the okami is
irreplaceable in her sphere. She is the sole figure that the
establishment cannot do without. From the very moment that you set foot
inside a hotel you are greeted by scores of nakai-san (waitresses) who
are waiting to welcome you to the hotel. Despite the throng surrounding
you there will be one figure standing out. One shining light waiting
serenely to add her warm welcomes to the ones already extended.
The okami in a hotel
is powerful, a queen, a god almost! She is also something of an actress.
Whatever her true character inside, outside she is cool and unflustered,
ready for anything. When the hotel is busy she works alongside her
colleagues, whatever the chore. She is responsible for the atmosphere in
the hotel, the quality of the service and the menu selections. As she
knows all that goes on in the hotel, so she encourages the nakai-san
under her guidance to do the same. What impresses me most is that in
order to understand how best to run these traditional establishments,
most okami learn these tasks for themselves. It is only this way that
she can ensure that the job is being done perfectly. As a team leader
she has experienced life as a waitress, an executive chef, a flower
arranger, a housekeeper, a front officer, a door keeper and much more.
As I mentioned, the
okami in Kusatsu are particularly famous. Several associations have been
formed for the benefit of okami, groups with which they can swap stories
and share ideas. One of these is an association formed by forty of the
area¡¦s most powerful and influential okami, Yu-no-hana-kai. This group
gets together at regular intervals to discuss the industry, share tips
and explain how they deal with particular problems or guest¡¦s queries.
One of the most prominent figures in this association is Kaoru Ichikawa,
who runs a hotel called Hotel Ichi, a property of approximately one
hundred rooms. As well as being something of a figurehead in the area,
she has also gained national fame as the ¡¥public face¡¦ of okami in
Japan. Visiting onsen hotels is a popular activity for Japanese of all
age groups so many are interested to know how an ¡¥okami day¡¦ is
organized, how they keep the operation running so smoothly when they
themselves are busy with their own tasks and so on. Numerous prominent
television shows have visited her for interviews, citing her as the
Okami Ambassador, the diplomatic link with the non-okami world.
The television reports
document the details of her daily life, highlight her ability to manage
her time efficiently and discuss her philosophy of life. These
electronic portrayals of her life have demonstrated how okami have to
deal with life¡¦s complexities on a multitude of levels and be willing to
jump into any role at a moments notice to ensure that the hotel
maintains its high position in the hotel rankings. Kaoru Ichikawa does
all this and more. She personally takes care of the flower arrangements
in all one hundred guest rooms as well as ensuring that fresh flowers
adorn surfaces throughout the hotel. In this way, she can be confident
that as well as enjoying first class service, her guests are also
experiencing an aesthetic image that will contribute to their overall
enjoyment of the trip.
What is perhaps the
most important task of her day, she says, is the evening repast, when
she performs a very special task. After sunset, guests gather in groups
of friends, family or associates for the evening meal. The okami will
visit each gathering to say a few words. The group may be an extended
family, celebrating a milestone, a team of colleagues ¡¥getting to know
each other¡¦ out of the office or a small group of friends. Whatever the
occasion, she must say a few words of welcome, of thanks for their
patronage or perhaps recount an amusing anecdote. Each short speech must
be different, tailor-made to the gathering to ensure that each guest
feels like an old friend being welcomed back.
You can see that the
okami lifestyle is not a nine-to-five existence. As she is involved in
every aspect of the hotel so the hotel takes on certain parts of her
personality, gaining its very essence from her personal touch. A hot
spring hotel without an okami is like the hot spring without its source
¡V nothing to warm the soul of a lonely traveler! When I return from
Japan to Taipei, I often reflect on my travels and miss the lovely faces
of the okami who are protecting my beloved onsen.
¡@
¡@
↑TOP
