Spa Lady
Onsen Love Stories
- 10
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My Sparkling Journey
in Yamagata
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Yamagata is not the
first name that springs to mind when you think of Japanese onsen but
perhaps it deserves more attention than it gets! With all of its 44
cities and towns each fully equipped with fine onsen facilities, it is
increasingly becoming known as the ¡¥Kingdom of Onsen¡¦. In true royal
style, Yamagata produces the finest sparkling wine in Japan ¡V a drink
that rivals the world-renowned champagne in France.
A veritable hot-spring
paradise, Yamagata Prefecture stretches from the Shonai plain on the
coast of the Japan Sea in the west to the Zao mountain range in the
east; from the mighty Mount Chokai in the north to the Yonezawa basin in
the south. With such a diverse landscape, we cannot be surprised by the
wealth and variety of the prefecture¡¦s hot springs. The cities, towns
and village are all blessed with hot springs of different sizes and
styles that attract visitors with their curative, steaming water.
Abundant ski slopes, excellent hiking, stunning scenery and an abundance
of fresh produce and interesting specialties contribute in drawing all
kinds of people to the area. What is most special however is the people
that work in the ryokan and elsewhere in the area and delight in
welcoming any visitor to their beautiful Furusato (hometown).
Japan¡¦s hot springs
have long been widely used not only for the treatment of various
ailments and wounds, but also for recreation and promotion of spiritual
health. With more than one hundred springs in the prefecture, Yamagata
is well equipped to cater for any ailment or any form of relaxing that
visitors might want. I love to visit this area which is home to so many
of my onsen, to catch any bus and know that it will lead me into the
arms of my lover. Let me describe a few to you, to demonstrate how
excitingly different they can be.
Zao Onsen is possibly
one of the most famous ski and onsen resorts in Yamagata. To ease away
the aches and pains incurred during the day¡¦s activities, there is a
choice of over 70 spa hotels as well as three public baths. Zao Onsen¡¦s
warm water with its pungent sulfur smell is believed to do wonders for
skin problems so of course, everyone in the area has beautiful,
unblemished skin. In winter, when the Zao trees are topped with snow and
ice, it becomes an Ice Frost Forest, like a beautiful, colorful
wonderland. It is known at this time by its other name, Hime-no-You or
Princess Onsen ¡V a title it certainly deserves.
Constructed in a more
traditional style, Ginzan Onsen exudes an aura of nostalgia with its
picturesque wooden buildings hugging the banks of the river and
containing delightful hotels within. In the evening, as I stroll along
reflected by the light of the gas lamps shining dimly through the onsen
mist, I am struck by the touching charm of the scene. Truly magical is
Kaminoyama Onsen. According to legend nearly 550 years old, Monk Gesshu
from Saga Prefecture was visiting the onsen when he saw a crane bathe
its wounded foot in the steaming water. Moments later it flew away, its
damaged limb completely cured. From then on the Onsen was nicknamed
¡¥Crane Foot Bath¡¦. It is home to one of Japan¡¦s most famous ryokan, Koyo
and also to a large public facility where entrance can be had for only
50 yen. By six o clock every morning onsen-zoku (people who love onsen)
are lining up with their towels and passing the time of day with other
early bird bathers. This is a 50 yen paradise for local Kaminoyama
residents and they are delighted to move over to allow any foreign
onsen-zoku that are up early enough to have a share in the paradise.
Imagami Onsen, located
in Tozawa Village has a pH value of 6.2 and is only 35.7 degrees. At
such a relatively low temperature it is a perfect place for those who
like to take time over their bathing. What is most unique about this
onsen is its unusual ritual, one I haven¡¦t seen elsewhere in Japan.
Before bathing, all bathers must first offer prayers to three gods
including Buddha and The Goddess of Mercy and chant the ritual Buddhist
chant ¡¥Na-mu-a-mi-da-butsu¡¦. Almost as a gesture of goodwill in return,
the onsen seems to have remarkable effects on stomach diseases, diabetes
and even cancer. Although there is only one ryokan here, it is quite an
interesting one, unique in its own way. While it is very cheap ¡V 6,000
yen will get you one night¡¦s accommodation and three vegetarian meals ¡V
it is only possible to stay there if you wish your visit to be one week
or longer, not difficult for us true onsen-zoku! It is suggested that
bathers immerse themselves in the water for up to ten hours a day in
addition to drinking generous measures. A week or more, they say, can
transform you into a new person inside and out!
Located on the border
of Niigata and Yamagata prefectures is Atsumi Onsen, with two top
Japanese-style onsen, Bankokuya and Tachibanaya. While these
establishments alone would attract me for a visit, it is the daily
morning market ¡¥Asa-ichi¡¦, that is truly special. From five-o clock
until eight, scores of shops and stalls gather and sell local
handicrafts and an abundance of freshly picked fruit and vegetables. Not
far away is Yunohama Onsen which was discovered by a farmer who noticed
that a wounded turtle bathing in a pond of steaming water emerged
healed! Kameya (Turtle House) is a luxurious ryokan where guests can
bathe in the rotenboro and gaze out at the sunset over the Japan Sea ¡V a
stunning sight that should be seen by all.
Goten Onsen is
Yamagatas¡¦s most typical Kurhaus-style onsen with a selection of twelve
pools that are designed to help any ailment they are presented with. So
varied are the pools that instructors are on hand to guide you to the
correct spring! From graceful silver haired pensioners looking for an
increase in strength to younger ladies looking for a secret to slimming,
Goten Onsen seems to have it all. Sagae Onsen, located in Sagae City,
which has the largest production of roses in Japan, has recently enjoyed
the addition to the area of a new ryokan where rose petals are added to
the water creating an instant impression of luxury! Slightly strange
perhaps but utterly delightful is the hot spring in Takahata¡¦s railway
station. What better than to indulge in a dip after a long journey.
I haven¡¦t even begun
to introduce all the wonderful hot springs in Yamagata but I imagine
that I have given an impression of why I am drawn to the area. Another
attraction appeals to the gourmet in me. Food Glorious Food! Although
the thought of dishes such as Taro Stew does not make the taste buds
tingle, this is a stew with a difference! On the first Sunday in
September, the largest pot cooking event in Japan is held. Yamagata¡¦s
authentic dish, imoni, is cooked using taro potatoes, beef, konnyaku
cakes and green leeks with soy sauce in a giant pot, six meters in
diameter and served to approximately 30,000 people. Generally, the imoni
season runs from early September to October and gives people to catch up
with old friends in the sun before the onslaught of winter!
Fruit lovers are in
for a delicious surprise! Cherries are another Yamagata treat and are
widely known as the ¡¥little lover¡¦. Succulent pears called ¡¥La France¡¦
are also abundant from October to December. Originally from France, they
are now seen as one of Japan¡¦s specialty products. Delicious Soba
(buckwheat) noodles are especially delicious in Yamagata where whole
streets are named Soba-kaido and are lined with stalls and shops selling
only locally produced soba. For a sweet taste, sample Junichi Kudo¡¦s 96
ice cream flavors. It was he who had the innovative idea of adding rose
petals to the pools at Sagae Onsen and his creativity seems to have
spread to his ice cream delights.
One of the most
alluring things for my experienced palate is the sparkling wine the
region produces. Although France¡¦s 700 sommelier are world renowned,
Japan actually has five times that number. In 1995 Japanese, Shinya
Tasaki won the World Sommelier Championships and went on to praise the
Takeda Winery for the superb quality of their sparkling wine, Cuvee
Yoshiko. I would certainly not argue with his superb judgement and I
consider myself more than a little knowledgeable on fine sparkling
wines!
Any of Japan¡¦s
prefectures will offer a wealth of styles and sizes of onsen. Yamagata
is special as it combines the traditional with innovative new ideas, spa
therapies with spiritual thought and steaming hot spring water with a
gourmet paradise. With such an appealing blend how can I not consider
this as a place to find a new Wuwaki (love affair) again!
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